Many boat owners don’t have the luxury of starting from scratch and the existing switch can usually be re-used/re-purposed easier, and in a less costly way, than converting to an entirely new switch configuration. This article is only intended to showcase how the 1/2/BOTH switch can be used in an easier and often less confusing manner. Let me be clear on this point this is not our preferred method, it is simply a method. Until then, a 30ah lithium battery is under $200 and i can afford that.Preface: I’ve seen & read many on the internet suggest that “The 1/2/BOTH is RC/Rod’s/Compass Marine’s preferred switching method”. But i wish i could just afford a bigger solar generators. I also like being able to move the Jackery out of the van to use outside or take somewhere to charge, like Starbucks. The jackery has been plug in and play and its been very easy. Would this work? Am i over thinking things? is there something im missing? Ive tried doing the whole system with a 12v battery and building the whole set up but it just never worked for me. I could also still plug the Jackery directly into a wall outlet and charge that way while the solar charges my lithium battery with no draw. All my lights, phone charger, fan, and fridge would still run off the Jackery since thats how i have it wired. This second battery would be for drinking solar and charging my primary battery only. This would essentially double the size of my battery and have a higher that 65w solar input (assuming sunny days). Then charge the primary battery off that. I can afford a 30ah Lithium battery and plug the 200w solar into that directly. Eventually, im just running out of power at night and waking up to a 0% battery. My fridge runs about 40w, meaning when its sunny, i'll get more power in than running out, but at night im just losing power. I have 2-100w renogy solar panels that works well on cloudy days, giving me more power than just one panel, but it still maxes out at 65w in. I have a Jackery 500 Solar generator and it maxes out at 65w solar in. I hope OP doesnt mind but im gonna piggie back on this post with my own battery question. If you have a drained house battery, and combine banks, your very large house bank will suck most of the available charge current up, leaving little for your start battery. DC to DC chargers are supposed to favor your start battery - and should only start charging your house batteries if your start battery is already (mostly) charged. I have a master combiner switch, so when I want a fast charge, I can manually combine the banks while driving. It might also get confused by other charge sources like solar. Currently, the b2b charger only outputs about 10% of it's rated capacity. I have a b2b charger, and I have had problems with them twice. An ACR / switch is simpler and less error prone. The alternator and the battery are matched by engineers so that neither one will overpower the other. It is not set up to detect or deal with auxiliary battery banks with long interconnect wire runs. The alternator is set up to detect the charge status of your start battery, as designed by the van engineers. Your van's electrical system is designed just to charge the start battery. My van's alternator is rated at 160amps - and when I combine banks, I can see up to 100 amps going into my battery bank. The standard safe charge rate for AGM is 0.1C - so, in your case, you should only charge at 50 amps. This can be hard on both the alternator and the batteries. If you just combine the batteries with a switch or an ACR, your alternator will just dump as much power as possible. The battery to battery charger is going to do an intelligent multiphase charge profile, based on the charge state of your house batteries. Is the van engine's start battery an AGM or FLA? This isn't really as much of an issue if you have a charging source active, but still. You don't want to mix battery chemistries. However, the resting voltage of lithiums is significantly higher than AGM/FLA so this high voltage detection scheme can be fooled by your regular batteries. Lithium batteries can confuse them - they are designed to join the 2 battery banks when a charging source (high voltage) is detected on either side. Is that 1.3 amps 120V ? Or 1.3 amps coming off your 12V batteries ? I would suspect the second, because my highly optimized 12V marine fridge draws 3 amps while running.Īn ACR is designed to do exactly what you want to do.
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